I would like to move an Oriental lily to a new location in my garden. Should I do it now-when it has finished flowering but the leaves are still green-or should I wait until after the foliage has completely died down? How deep should I plant it, and what should I add to the soil? I live in USDA Zone 4. - -K.P., Chenango Forks, New York

The foliage of your plant should have turned brown and died back by fall, which is the best time for moving and planting lilies. Dig up the bulb and cut back the old stem to just above the point it emerges from the bulb. To prevent the bulb from drying out, have the new site ready beforehand so you can transplant your bulb immediately.

Lilies grow best in a well-aerated, neutral to slightly acidic soil, preferably a deep sandy loam. Add organic matter-well-rotted manure, compost, or leaf mold-to the soil and work it in thoroughly prior to planting. Plant the bulb at a depth of three to four times its length-base to tip-water generously, and apply mulch to prevent damage from rapid freezing and thawing in winter.

Caring for an Asparagus Bed

The development of the fernlike foliage of asparagus is an important part of its life cycle; it is the photosynthetic part of the plant that feeds the roots for next year's crop. It is important, therefore, not to cut the plants back until the stems and leaves have turned brown.

Some asparagus growers suggest cutting the foliage back in fall; others prefer waiting until early spring. There are advantages to either timing: fall cutting removes potential over wintering pests, yet leaving stalks until early spring may provide some winter protection. If you elect to cut them back in the fall, wait until after you have had a few frosts, then mulch the bed for winter.

Curious About Milky Spore

I recently read a reference to milky spore disease as an organic remedy for grubs. What is it, and how effective is it? - - L.J., Salem, Oregon

Milky spore is a disease of certain beetle grubs that has been used to control their populations, especially the Japanese beetle. It is caused by a bacterium-Bacillus popilliae-that does not harm beneficial insects. Although it is organic in the broad sense of the term, it is more accurately referred to as a biological control. Although it works slowly-taking two or more years to reach peak effectiveness-it is very effective for control of Japanese beetles, especially when applied on a community-wide basis. Once the bacterium is established in the soil, it provides long-term control.

Milky spore is available from hardware stores and Gardener's Supply Company (888) 833-1412; www.gardeners.com.

Over Wintering Coffee

I have had a coffee plant for several years now and bring it indoors during the winter. I live in Virginia Beach, Virginia, and was wondering if it might survive the winter here outdoors. Also, do you have any suggestions for its care? - -L.S., Virginia Beach, Virginia

A large shrub or small tree in its tropical habitat, Coffea arabica is hardy only in USDA Zones 10 and 11; it would not survive the winter where you live (Zone 7). In the United States, coffee plants are primarily grown as house plants. They will do best where daytime temperatures range from 70 to 75 degrees, with nighttime temperatures about 5 degrees cooler. Indoors, provide bright indirect light. Feed the plant with a mild liquid fertilizer, and keep it evenly moist during the growing season. Pinch stems to keep the growth compact. Reduce both fertilizer and water during winter.

Shedding Ficus

About two months ago, I purchased two ficus trees-one variegated and one solid green. They were potbound, so I repotted them using a commercial potting soil with a handful of compost mixed in. The solid one has some leaf drop, but it seems to be sprouting as many leaves as it is losing. The variegated one, however, has some new growth at the bottom and the top but is naked in the middle. Both trees are in a room with bright, indirect light, and I mist them at least every other day. What could be the problem? - -A.D., Houston, Texas

Ficus trees are well known for going into shock and losing their leaves when they are moved or transplanted. Since yours were moved and transplanted recently, you will probably be picking up their fallen leaves for some time, but don't be too alarmed; the lost leaves should gradually be replaced with a thinner set of smaller leaves until they are acclimated to their new environment.

Because light levels begin to diminish at this time of year, provide as much direct, natural light as possible. A water soluble, balanced fertilizer can be applied every four weeks until winter, when fertilizer should be withheld until spring. Ficus trees really fill out when placed outdoors in a semi-shady location over summer, but they will likely lose their leaves again when they are brought back in the house. m